DXZeff's Computing Forum | ||
| ||
Recently Played/Bought/Messed with Jump to page : < ... 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 ... > Now viewing page 61 [25 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Computer Speak -> General Computing | Message format |
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | Found a recapper for my Amiga1200. Going to have it recapped with organic polymer caps, for minimum leakage in the future. Also... Fixed the mouse that came with the Amiga1200. I had to change one switch, then I was able to get working by having the other switch soaked in IPA. Cleaned the PCB with IPA and the ball plus rollers and sensors in IPA as well. The plastic shell was also cleaned in IPA. It is a responsive and heavy mouse, now working like new. Edited by Brostenen 2021-02-22 10:25 PM (C-Mouse-01.jpg) (C-Mouse-02.jpg) Attachments ---------------- C-Mouse-01.jpg (338KB - 361 downloads) C-Mouse-02.jpg (280KB - 343 downloads) | ||
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | Updated my Amiga500 in PC desktop case, by installing a panelmounted internal HDMI extension cable. Now I have HDMI port on the rear of the machine. The machine is beginning to take shape as a kind of big box Amiga. As of now, the specs are kind of the same as an Amiga2000-HD, just with some extra. EDIT: I have that RGBtoHDMI RPI-Zero adaptor, then IDE interface, 1 megabyte ChipRam, 8 megabyte FastRam, Harddrive, Kickstart switcher with room for 4 roms (1.2 1.3 and 3.1.4 installed), an USB keyboard adaptor and the keyboard wires extended to a DIN plug. Yup, I can have two different keyboards on the machine. I removed the CD-Rom drive in order to have an 3.5 inch HDD and active cooling. I also have a case fan in the front of the case, in order to take in and blow cool air over the combined IDE/8mb adaptor in the CPU socket. Edited by Brostenen 2021-02-24 11:05 AM (500-Desktop-Update-01.jpg) (500-Desktop-Update-02.jpg) (500-Desktop-Update-03.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 500-Desktop-Update-01.jpg (440KB - 354 downloads) 500-Desktop-Update-02.jpg (411KB - 314 downloads) 500-Desktop-Update-03.jpg (482KB - 351 downloads) | ||
tedster |
| ||
Rise MP6 Posts: 263 | Such a nice "Miggy"! | ||
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | tedster - 2021-02-25 10:03 AM Such a nice "Miggy"! Thanks... I am happy with the machine, though I need to adress the HDD cooler. Three fans seem like overkill, and the noise is rather loud. Also. I have been packing up my Amiga1200 motherboard for shipping to a recap service. Going to get organic polymer caps. :-P Finally I have been setting up my breadbin. Something is off and odd about the sound. I think the SID is defect. It gives noise, however it does not sound right. I have a spare SwinSID Nano. It is not perfect at all, however it is good for testing. If the SID is defect, then I will order an ARM-SID for the machine. | ||
tedster |
| ||
Rise MP6 Posts: 263 | The later arm sid's are supposed to be pretty good too. | ||
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | tedster - 2021-02-27 11:56 PM The later arm sid's are supposed to be pretty good too. Depends.... The sound quality is not better, as samples are played really low. One example are the game Ghost Busters. However that can be solved by adding a resistor to the chip. One the good side it runs on 5v and are more stable. Demo's however are eighter coded for the old SID or the new SID. Basically, both versions are not better than the other. I think it comes down to what one prefer in the long run, as they both have their ups and downs. The best sid are the R4AF revision of the old SID. It is the 1986 revision that came with the first Model-C (Rev 250466 boards) The strength of that chip, is that it has Advanced Filthering. (Hence the AF in revision designation) and is extremely valuable. Look at it, as the difference between AWE64-Value and AWE64-Gold. Both gives more or less equal sound quality as such, yet the Gold have a bit extra, like more room for samples and Reverb/Chorus. Edited by Brostenen 2021-02-28 8:19 AM | ||
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | I was not able to resist my self... Bought a new coffee cup. Awesomme. (Kaffekop.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Kaffekop.jpg (422KB - 345 downloads) | ||
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | Well... I recieved the complete parts kit for Commodore64 SixtyClone Rev. 250466 and began to solder. Then I ran out of solder tin and had to order 200 gram of solder tin. Of course it is lead based solder. It is that 40/60 mix (or 60/40 because I can not remember the name correct) (C64-250466-Parts-Kit.jpg) (SixtyClone-1-March.jpg) Attachments ---------------- C64-250466-Parts-Kit.jpg (375KB - 342 downloads) SixtyClone-1-March.jpg (556KB - 344 downloads) | ||
tedster |
| ||
Rise MP6 Posts: 263 | Looking good! This guy did a side by side sid v's arm chips. I couldn't tell much difference between them. Perhaps my ears are too old now! https://youtu.be/ItQrWqfH30Q | ||
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | tedster - 2021-03-04 5:16 AM Looking good! This guy did a side by side sid v's arm chips. I couldn't tell much difference between them. Perhaps my ears are too old now! https://youtu.be/ItQrWqfH30Q Thanks. Well. I hear that SID A is a tiny bit more clear than SID B. However it comes as a cost of a tiny bit more metallic in quality. | ||
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | Cleaned the last bits of flux off my SixtyClone, and checked if all socket's are connected fully to ground. Then checked if there were solder bridges between all legs on all sockets. Then checked if volt in pins are all connected to the right voltage lines. Did a smoke-test, without any chips inserted, and nothing blew up. Finally measured voltages on all volt-in pins on each socket. All 5 volt pins have exactly 5.02 volt and all 12 volt pins have exactly 12.20 All volt lines are completely stable, and nothing drops or raises (might be due to no chips) This is really looking promising... And thinking about the fact that the last big thing i build by soldering was a variable bench PSU in primaery school around 1990, then I kind of did good so far. | ||
tedster |
| ||
Rise MP6 Posts: 263 | So a new C64 better than the original, nice! So you think "A" is the real SID? If you say that in the comments and are a susbscriber you can win his original, if you are right! This forum works much better on Internet Exploder 6 than that bloody Opera! Edited by tedster 2021-03-06 1:59 AM | ||
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | tedster - 2021-03-06 3:39 AM So a new C64 better than the original, nice! So you think "A" is the real SID? If you say that in the comments and are a susbscriber you can win his original, if you are right! This forum works much better on Internet Exploder 6 than that bloody Opera! A new one should be better than the original. So many of the old machines do not have sockets, and I can always choose chips that are better. Or you can stick with the old ones, just as you please. And my board will outlast any of the original 250466 boards. Well.... I do not count on winning the SID. It is a new SID, so it is not on par with the OLD. If I win, then I have yet another chip in the collection. :-) | ||
tedster |
| ||
Rise MP6 Posts: 263 | Should be great, I'm looking forward to seeing the finished result! Plus it looks great anyway. | ||
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | I am looking forward as well. I have found out what I am missing to buy.... It is the keyboard brackets that are used for the keyboard to rest/stand on internally in this Model-C case. I also am missing to buy a dead-test cartridge, and perhaps I should invest in a test harnis as well. I have gone through how the voltage regulators work, with a Danish dude on a different forum. He is one of them that repairs C64's and have a vast knowledge on this subject. He reports that the regulators will get just as hot, as those that delivers lower amps. The way they are better, is that they can take some more torture, and will last longer, due to lower wear in a stock configured C64. I am not planning to upgrade it with stuff like kernal switcher or anything like that, however I will possible buy those ESD protection for the CIA chips. It is two small PCB's in a kit, that are sandwiched between the board and the chips. And they emit a red glow from an LED. Finally I need to find a suitable spot were I can draw 12volt for a LED strip that I have bought for my black Model-C case. The idea is to have a faint red light come out of the cooling grill. Finally I will most likely see if I can get a hold of one of them gold or silver coloured case badge. If I can find one with a cool font that is. Uhhh.... And I am missing to add a pin header for the power LED in the case. I think this will become a really beautifull Commodore64 replica of the 1986 model. Same board revision, same VIC-II revision and same case revision. Only difference is that I will be using as modern replacement parts as possible, and still maintain 100% compatibility and operation as the original one. A lot of research have gone into my machine so far. | ||
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | Did some more Amiga related stuff today. As I have installed one of the RGB-to-HDMI adaptors in my Amiga500 Rev. 8a.1 machine (full ECS chipset). And I installed a push button in my Amiga500-PC-Case convertion the other day. Then why not install a button in my 500 that are in standard case. I installed the button between the boot selector switch and the Kickstart Switcher. That way I have access to all these mod's right below the Floppy drive. The nice thing about the standard Amiga500 case, is the there are rooms for stuff like flat-cable (the HDMI output) and wires between the bottom shield and the Floppy drive. (Amiga500-RGBtoHDMI-Button-01.jpg) (Amiga500-RGBtoHDMI-Button-02.jpg) (Amiga500-RGBtoHDMI-Button-03.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Amiga500-RGBtoHDMI-Button-01.jpg (459KB - 356 downloads) Amiga500-RGBtoHDMI-Button-02.jpg (480KB - 308 downloads) Amiga500-RGBtoHDMI-Button-03.jpg (267KB - 331 downloads) | ||
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | Yesterday I yanked the "stock" voltage regulators out of my SixtyClone, and replaced them with a 2a 12v and a 1.5a 5volt. I was not able to source a 2a 5v ?? Then I mounted an original heatsink on the 5v voltage regulator, and used a tiny blob of arctic silver between the heatsink and voltage regulator. (better do a decent job). Tested voltages and all checks out. Today I soldered in some pin headers for the power led, and only soldering remaining, are the shield over the cartridge connector. That one will be from an original C64 as well. I think the build is a success, because there are no solder bridges (shorts) between any of the socket pins at all (done in one go) and all sockets have the correct voltages on 12 volt and 5 volt pins. All sockets have connection to ground on the ground pins. Logically it should work as long as all chips that I will be using are in working state. When done and running, then the only things that are not factory new are the following: - Two DB9 ports/connectors. - Choke coil at the power-connector. - Cartridge port bracket/shield. - Variable Capacitor. (CT1 trimmer close to VIC-II) - Voltage regulator heatsink. - The keyboard it self. (case and keyboard brackets are completely new) - Some of the chips that are not modern replacements for. (VIC-II, CIA's and so on) It will be interresting to see if the machine is working after a little over a year of work. I have done it in small phases, because it was not my only project. I am already thinking about the next build of some kind of 8bit computer. Hmmm.... What will it be? Commodore128 or a modulair C64? Perhaps an Apple-II. Edited by Brostenen 2021-03-11 2:12 PM | ||
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | Yet another update on my SixtyClone.... The modern modulator replacement came in the mail today, and I am freaking ready to test with chips installed in the sockets. This have been a loooong way to this point. Not that it takes that long to solder and build. It is quite easy and simple to do. Yet I had to buy parts in small quanteties, and build a little by little, in order to be able to afford it. Except for the GND wire that are soldered directly to the modulator, then I have installed sockets and pins, to be able to take it off if testing is in need. ?? So.... Pic's or it didn't happen' (so they say) It looks soooo good. (Board-01.jpg) (Board-02.jpg) (Board-03.jpg) (Board-04.jpg) (Board-05.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Board-01.jpg (587KB - 341 downloads) Board-02.jpg (602KB - 340 downloads) Board-03.jpg (671KB - 313 downloads) Board-04.jpg (639KB - 309 downloads) Board-05.jpg (510KB - 321 downloads) | ||
DXZeff |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 618 Location: Hull, UK | Recently sliced the RF box off of my Atari 7800 to turn the system over to composite. This was quite annoying as A. People now seem to assume you're going to order a kit, versus just slapping five resistors and a transistor together, and B. My motherboard isn't well documented anywhere that I could find, so I had to do some reverse-engineering to figure out where signals were, audio being especially obscure. However, I think it's shit because the colors don't bleed all over the place; So I'll probably be going back in to make the signals dodgy on purpose. Personally I don't think Atari games look right with a sharp image and they probably weren't designed to play that way to begin with. It shouldn't be too hard to make the chroma noisy. What could do to be sharper is the Video Bastardizer. I'm tempted to use it permanently with the 6MHz system some day, as that was originally meant to be an EGA machine, but the card I ordered when I built it all those years back got lost in the warehouse and this Heath one doesn't work right, so it can stay on the Everex VGA card for now. Still, I do have a recording of the Bastardizer's output using the Heath EGA card in the 16MHz system. Of course it still needs some small tweaks when, or if I can be bothered. Not sure why green intensity inverts sometimes as the diodes aren't backwards. Some day I'll make more recordings, but from the 6MHz system, as something interesting happens; EGA games actually run a little smoother on a real EGA card versus using a VGA card. I suspect this vanishes on later VGA cards, but those usually won't work in that system, so it's kinda stuck with older ones. The Everex is from 1987, so would have been one of the very first and likely didn't mimmick such modes quite as well as what came after it. Meanwhile this Heath EGA card is dodgy, text goes missing and all kinds of things (may even be the cause of the color oddities instead of the Bastardizer, as I know its red outputs are faulty already), but that's what you get for buying the cheapest card you can find solely to test if conversion is possible. Now that I know it is, I may invest in a better one later. Would still likely swap the Everex back in every so often, have them on a rotation, as I do rather like the quirks of such an early VGA card and don't have any other machine old enough to justify having it in - this is a 1985 system. Finally got around to re-recording my cover of Nitemare 3D's third stage with less mushy mixing; https://soundcloud.com/high_treason/nitemare-3d-stage-3 | ||
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | @DXZeff I think a sharper image looks great, than fuzzy RF. Though I really do not like completely and 100 percent sharp pixels my self. That is why I have chosen a slight smoothing filther on that RaspberryPI adaptor that I have installed in two of my Amiga500's. I hate old RF quality, and I hate emulator quality. However somewere in between, as long as there are no ghosting, then it is good. Ghosting are really annoying. Uhhh... And smooth scrolling is a must, no matter if it is CRT or LCD. A big no-go is running a 50 hz signal on a tv that thinks it is 60 hz. That gives major issues. | ||
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | My new toy are finally working as new. I have had the systemboard to recap and there are now new organic polymer caps on it and then I bought a new keyboard membrane. I am still missing a new floppy drive, so I have borrowed the drive that are normally in my Amiga600 for testing. It ran perfect through every test in the program called Systest, and then I played half an hour of Cannon Fodder in AGA resolution. Works perfect. I have so far payed some 123 euro for membrane and recap and the machine it self was bought for 200 euro. The good thing, is that there will be no more leaking caps, and the machine will stop working the day one chip gives up and not because of leaking caps. (Amiga1200.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Amiga1200.jpg (423KB - 326 downloads) | ||
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | My SixtyClone is done. Well... Nearly, as I still need to sort out a few things here and there, like soldering in the bracket on the cartridge port. I have also gotten rid of the RF Modulator replacement, as an original NOS that I initially bought for this project, delivers the absolute best picture that I have EVER seen on a Commodore64. And boy is that image quality perfect. It is like 1986 all over again, because it is a clone of the 1986 model that Commodore produced. Same board revision and same case version. The case is actually cast on the molds that Commodore used in 1986. My case are created in black plastic though. I can now reveal the name that I have given the machine. I have named it "Black Bessy, The Goth64." So. Today I have tested it firmly with some hours of gaming and watched a demo. I started by setting up the ARM-SID replacement that are in the machine. There is a tool, that one can change filther strength with and change SID version emulation. I sat it 3 notch down, because that suits me well. Then some gaming. Batman the movie and Giana sisters were some of the games I tested it with. Why Black Bessy? Well. The case is black, the keyboard is dark coloured breadbin style. The systemboard/motherboard is black with gold. I have a custom case badge on it, and the rubber feet's are brown. And the Power-LED are orange and not red or green. Personally I am extremely pleased with the result, and I am proud that I have been able to build a working computer from scratch. And the result... Oh man... This is now my favorite C64 and will last many years, as more and more replacements are being made. Someone is creating CIA chips, using FPGA and the VIC-II are already created as a working prototype, also using FPGA technology. PLA replacements have been on the market for a number of years and the ARMSID are so close to the original, that I can not hear any difference. Also worth noting, that every single SID, even same revisions, can and do sound differently. Anyway.... Pics, or it did not happen.... Edited by Brostenen 2021-03-18 9:01 PM (Black-Bessy-01.jpg) (Black-Bessy-02.jpg) (Black-Bessy-03.jpg) (Black-Bessy-04.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Black-Bessy-01.jpg (477KB - 308 downloads) Black-Bessy-02.jpg (355KB - 331 downloads) Black-Bessy-03.jpg (327KB - 298 downloads) Black-Bessy-04.jpg (517KB - 316 downloads) | ||
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | I have finished up the last bits on my Black Bessy SixtyClone-250466 machine. Soldered in the cartridge bracket or shield if you like. Signed it with the date of completion and my signature. Then I have finally found the issue of no colour on CRT and so, it is completely done. My own C64 that I personally build from scratch. And it is the exact model/revision of the machine that I have wanted for a long time. Because that specific model are really hard to find in perfect and working condition, then I said fuck it and did my own. I has already grown on me, and have become my favorite C64 of all time. Quality are top and there are small details such as gold everywere. Something that Commodore would never dream of doing. | ||
DXZeff |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 618 Location: Hull, UK | I've often considered building an 8088 on perf board, but would never use it, given it's hard enough finding things to run on 286. | ||
Brostenen |
| ||
TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | DXZeff - 2021-03-24 6:46 AM I've often considered building an 8088 on perf board, but would never use it, given it's hard enough finding things to run on 286. To me, it is not really about building something to run stuff on. To me, it is all about the build it self. :-) More like the satisfaction of going through the process and learning. You can always sell it to someone who wants a newly build 8088. ;-) A bit like taking the hobby to another level so to speak. Never the less, I am going to be using my SixtyClone for stuff. It have an extremely good video output, with clean contrast and colours spot on. And I will be doing another one if I can find enough parts. Edited by Brostenen 2021-03-24 11:08 AM | ||
Jump to page : < ... 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 ... > Now viewing page 61 [25 messages per page] |
Search this forum Printer friendly version E-mail a link to this thread |
(Delete all cookies set by this site) | |
Running MegaBBS ASP Forum Software © 2002-2024 PD9 Software | |