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Computer Speak -> General Computing | Message format |
Brostenen |
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TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | Sure looks like that "cotton" material you get from exploding elektrolyt caps (yeah, I know it is not cotton, just looks like). And as far as I have been told, then that material are corrosive. Much like barrel batteries. I think the culprit are those two caps (now, model fat-boy's) that spilled their guts all over the place. | ||
Brostenen |
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TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | Speaking of good games on the C64... (SuperMario64.jpg) Attachments ---------------- SuperMario64.jpg (344KB - 438 downloads) | ||
Old Guy 88 |
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Intel P5 Posts: 68 Location: N.E. Pennsylvania USA | @DXZeFF Don`t know why but i heard this and thought of you and Mullet Man https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6bFTVi0hHs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_MRT6rJRGk Edited by Old Guy 88 2019-04-26 1:02 AM | ||
Old Guy 88 |
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Intel P5 Posts: 68 Location: N.E. Pennsylvania USA | DOOM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FR1TWP9RBNE | ||
Brostenen |
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TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | Recieved that Amiga500 Revision 6 board that I ordered, and began to measure the dimensions of an old 486 class PC case. My thoughts about the case is correct, and it can house an a500 system board. All I need to do, is to remove some material in the back, remove the metal standoff's in the case that are welded into the case. Then I need to repaint the case and remove any traces of the brand (easy, it is stickers) and any traces of what was once housed in the case. It is a nice desktop case. It is made from thick steel, because it was a brand case and not one of them cheap clone cases that are made from flimsy aluminium material. It has room for one 3.5 inch drive, one 5.25 inch drive and one 3.5 inch harddrive. The power supply is raised, so it is not sitting on the bottom of the case, and I still have the original PSU that are broken. So it is just a question on gutting it, keeping the original power switch and then using a meanwell PSU inside the original PSU housing. This way I can still use a low noise fan to bring some airflow inside the case. This will be my Amiga project for 2019. | ||
DXZeff |
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TM Crusoe Posts: 618 Location: Hull, UK | @Old Guy 88; ECS bought PC Chips somewhere around the end of the 90s, so some of their boards were sold with either brand. @Waybacktech; For some reason it always seems to get ugly when things corrode in those old Apple machines. @Brostenen; The only games I could really be bothered with on the C64 were the Dizzy games, everything else just makes me wish I was playing on the Master System or something instead. Nothing much going on right now, trying to clear enough room to work on a video but even then I'm not sure on what direction to take with it. I found the Mystique box, it does have the joker on it, for some reason I remembered it being far more orange and lacking this feature, must have been a different card. Edited by DXZeff 2019-04-27 11:17 AM (JPEG_20190427_111245.jpg) Attachments ---------------- JPEG_20190427_111245.jpg (46KB - 433 downloads) | ||
waybacktech |
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IDT WinChip Posts: 237 Location: USA | I have seen another variant of this box but it mostly listed different included software and the box you have is the one I had back in the day. Sure wish I hadn't thrown that away. I use to have the cd which has the same joker on it but haven't been able to find it for a long time. The "business" version of the card might be what you are thinking of as it had a profound orange section and lacked the joker, for reasons I guess because "business" buyers wouldn't buy a product with a joker on it. (MM220B.jpg) Attachments ---------------- MM220B.jpg (261KB - 464 downloads) | ||
Brostenen |
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TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | I have begun recapping the Commodore64 breadbin motherboard. Halfway finished, and now it is too dark to continue. Will continue tomorrow. | ||
DXZeff |
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TM Crusoe Posts: 618 Location: Hull, UK | Upgrades. Will have to try this with the SU082 if I can ever be bothered to pull out all the cards to get to the socket. (confable.png) Attachments ---------------- confable.png (257KB - 444 downloads) | ||
Brostenen |
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TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | Finished recapping my Breadbin Assy 250407 Rev. B and it is in perfect battle condition now. The machine is from week 48 in 1983, and because the caps were original, then I think that this machine will work the next 20 to 25 years. And while I was at it, swapping the caps under the VIC-II heatsink-shield, then I gave the VIC-II some new thermal grease. Recapping have solved the following issues: - Colour bleed are totally gone, if I use the correct cable. - Colour bleed have been reduced by 50%, when using lower grade cable. - Light intensity that were pulsating are now gone. - No "radionoise" in the picture on Giana Sisters. - Loading are 100% stable again. - Sound is working 100% again. - Contrast and overall image sharpness are like new again. - Letters and numbers are extremely sharp again. - Few games that would not load, are loading once again. I am beginning to think on if I should get one of those new cases, that are made on original molds. If I buy one, the machine will not be a breadbin anymore. Else I can go the retrobright route or I can spraypaint the case. As of now, it is only the yellow case, that I need to adres now. | ||
Brostenen |
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TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | I was looking for a solution, in order to be able to use a 5 volt VIC-II chip in a 12 volt Commodore64 board. It turns out, that there are no adaptor or PCB, so I had to cook something up. Made a quick and dirty solution. No time to test, too late. I made sure that Pin-13 did not make electrical contact between the board and the top socket. Then soldered a wire between Pin-13 and Pin-40. Hopefully the solution is not too high. At least this is a prototype or what it can be called. (VIC-II-5volt-01.jpg) (VIC-II-5volt-02.jpg) Attachments ---------------- VIC-II-5volt-01.jpg (376KB - 434 downloads) VIC-II-5volt-02.jpg (321KB - 428 downloads) | ||
waybacktech |
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IDT WinChip Posts: 237 Location: USA | Just the latest example of why I FUGGING HATE Windblows 10 | ||
Brostenen |
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TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | I so understand you. Win10 is a handicapped operating system. Win7 is much better. | ||
GlitchHiker |
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Harris 286 Posts: 20 | Heh, did you try attrib -r -s -h -a -WTFBBQ | ||
DXZeff |
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TM Crusoe Posts: 618 Location: Hull, UK | Any OS beyond Win98SE is a joke. Have gotten 128M of RAM to work in Win3.1 and also learned I could have almost doubled frame rates in DukeDC by using 8-Bit audio mixing, I forgot it hit that hard on older systems. (20190504234841.JPG) Attachments ---------------- 20190504234841.JPG (376KB - 448 downloads) | ||
GlitchHiker |
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Harris 286 Posts: 20 | I got to jonesing for hot DOS on DOS action, so I bust out the... Mighty Contura 4/25 ... well maybe not that mighty. It was just the easiest to find. It fires straight up to... "Missing operating system" gah... okeyday risk the one bootdisk, my precious, and yiss, now we're DOSing with gas. Checked CMOS hdd type is set, can access C:, but dammit, got a 6.20 bootdisk and a 6.22 DOS install, so can't check if partition active with fdisk on hdd. "Wrong dos version" etc.... grrr, but oh look Doom is installed so quick blast thru E1M1 to confirm functionality, check, essential diagnostics performed. Amidiag on disk, so run that, HDD check, not finding bad sectors, so hopefully drive type right and boot sector is physically okay. y.u.no.boot? I am a bit mystified. It's got a ~700MB drive in which is big for when it was new. This machine was bought refurb in 96/97 by fam member, paid a hundred or so to upgrade it to 8MB RAM. Forgot what size HDD it had in then, I'm fairly sure it ran win 3.11, no sign of win install now. I think this came to me in 99. Possibly the current drive came out of a messed up AST ascentia 4/75. I would have thought I would have got it booting when I did that, but looking at the folder dates when I put stuff on it, it looks like around the time our cat had kittens, and I spent the next few months tending to them since she didn't. Anyway... can't figure if I set it up right then, or hadn't finished messing with it, or what. So-o-o-o-o-ooo... taking stock, haven't seen my laplink cable in a few years, no network, no pcmcia for network, no cd, Win7 machine with USB floppy, Armada PIII with fucky win98 install or old puppylinux install maybe floppy working... guess I'm looking for 6.22 image and tryna get one of those to write it right, get boot fixed. Edited by GlitchHiker 2019-05-07 5:28 PM | ||
GlitchHiker |
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Harris 286 Posts: 20 | Get back into old hobbies they said, it's good for your blood pressure they said... So the Armada 1750, a PII sorry not a PIII (Keep meaning to find a PIII module for it though) is acting like it can't see it's hard drive, and puppy has pissed on the couch and chewed the curtains, it appears it's not seeing it's maintenance partition with the CMOS setup on, because I can't get it into setup at all, gah. So THAT also needs re-initialisng from floppy too now, hope I can find the right softpaq, heard HP had moved everything. Right then, let's try the old Armada 1580... now this one has been flaking out for some time... and damn, yeah, can't even get a POST screen out of it, caps dried out maybe. Well now what, ah, wifey's old Armada E500... annnd... it powers on to a black screen... holy freaking mass extinction batman... they'll lock me up for genocide of compaqs.... give it the old vulcan nerve pinch, and phew, this time it boots into doh yeah, windoze XP... And now I realise, derp no wifi, was using a pcmcia one in it, but where has it wandered off to? Do I really wanna expose a way unpatched XP machine to interwebs to grab some files... am I gonna sneakernet usb stick to it? Oh, maybe I just need an Fdisk on a compatible boot floppy so I can set drive active and thats all for now, I'll try that. Just been having internet go flaky and been futzing with modem and router for hour though, so run out of time until after supper. Not sure if I wanna pull out yet another friggin laptop, an old Thinkpad with 98 on it, can't recall if it's a PII or Tillamook 266.. also not sure if floppy drive is in it, or whether it was swappable with CD and I have to hunt it down... jeebus.... just a fun day playing in dos with the 486 is what I thunk this morning. | ||
GlitchHiker |
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Harris 286 Posts: 20 | So it turned out the stupid E500 has a buggered floppy drive, or IDK just likes eating disks for the hell of it. It also decided that another intriguing personality quirk would be to develop some sort of cataleptic narcolepsy, i.e. it didn't so much go into sleep mode as go into a coma when powersaving kicks in, luvverly. I just tried telling myself that I don't run a convalescent home for partially abled laptops and then looked over at a toshiba satellite c2d that has a desktop keyboard sitting on it, because it's own was coked to death, and realised that fuck me it might be true. I didn't intend to make this the story of every laptop I've ever owned, but lifting desktops and monitors around is too much like hard labour at the moment, so laptops it is. So... out came the win98 Thinkpad, 380XD... it boots, beauty, it reads disks, nice, it formats disks, sweet, it puts the system files on the floppy or else it gets the hose again.... and at least I've got a 2nd bootable floppy disk now... okay so boot the contura 4/25 yup, fdisk primary partition active, yup, fdisk /mbr, yup, sys c: yup, restart annnnd "Missing operating system" youuuuuuuuu cocksucker. Looks like I'm going down the rabbit hole of contura supported drive types and finding one that is, or doing something hairy like editing the table, not sure if that BIOS is flashable. | ||
Brostenen |
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TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | Testing my new Amiga500 Revision 6a board.... Using my very yellowed spare keyboard and a modded floppy drive. All test have gone through: Systest, Sysspeed, a couple of Demo's and a lot of games. (Amiga500test.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Amiga500test.jpg (569KB - 436 downloads) | ||
GlitchHiker |
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Harris 286 Posts: 20 | Neat, I will have to look up the floppy drive mods. I put away a couple of JU-257s to do the mod that's been in the Aminet hardware directory since 90s, but it has been so long ago that those drives are not significantly younger than the original amiga drives. So when i actually need them, not sure they'll be in any better condition. My Amiga stuff is in hibernation for now though. | ||
Brostenen |
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TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | GlitchHiker - 2019-05-16 7:22 PM Neat, I will have to look up the floppy drive mods. I put away a couple of JU-257s to do the mod that's been in the Aminet hardware directory since 90s, but it has been so long ago that those drives are not significantly younger than the original amiga drives. So when i actually need them, not sure they'll be in any better condition. My Amiga stuff is in hibernation for now though. I bought the drive from a company that did the mod, prior to selling the drive. So I have not done the mod my self. The reason is that I do not own a solder iron with a thin enough tip. Else there are specially made cables out there. They will provide all the correct signals, and actually convert a PC-Standard drive to an Amiga-standard drive. You need to modify the top part of the drives cover and then you need the correct eject button as well. The easiest way these days, are actually getting a Gotek solution, and a specially made 3D Printed mounting plate. The plate makes it look like there is an eject button and you avoid cutting into the machines case. This might also be the best solution out there. Yet I prefer the sound of a real drive my self. Most have gone the Gotek way though. | ||
DXZeff |
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TM Crusoe Posts: 618 Location: Hull, UK | I'm more surprised at the notion of a Gotek device actually working than I am at the idea of a real moneyhole drive working. Free time has been limited, but I've been toying with the SU082 and was also successful in getting a P54 to run at 66MHz. Oh, almost forgot, you don't need a thin tip to solder small parts, just the balls to try; The studs which hold the drive mechanism in the PS1 also made a convenient gun holder on this occasion; Edited by DXZeff 2019-05-19 8:33 AM | ||
Brostenen |
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TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | DXZeff - 2019-05-19 8:01 AM I'm more surprised at the notion of a Gotek device actually working than I am at the idea of a real moneyhole drive working. Well.... Depends on what machine you are looking at getting to run. Here I am talking money wise. Most Amiga drives are long dead and gone, because they were used all the time. Compared to PC that were not really used that much. And so, the drives have become extremely rare, and prices have gone up. Another thing, is that the drive standards are two different ones. The Amiga are sugard standard, and are jumped at DF0. The PC are called PC-Standard, and is jumped at DF1. Plus the Amiga need drive-ready and disc-change signals as well. Soldering on some PC drives are sometimes really difficult, and I have ripped solder pads on a couple of drives. So the best solution, is to get that mod-datacable and use a custom 3D-Printed eject button, if you want a real drive. On the other hand, a gotek drive have fallen extremely in price, to the point of being cheaper than a real drive. And if you know the right person, he can sell you a gotek and a USB pen for Amiga, with nearly all games already set up. As I mentioned. Then I have destroyed a couple of drives. Yet modding a PC drive for Amiga is like no problem if you have the right tool. This picture below, is just one of many drive types, that can be modded. So it is just an example on what work needs to be done. The last thing is rotation speed. The Amiga operates at different rotation speed, yet some 95% of all software will run anyway. Most that will not run due to different speed are Demo's and stuff that are specially coded. I think that a Gotek will set you back some 25 British pounds. A real Amiga Floppy disk drive will set you back some 30 to 35 British pounds. And a PC-To-Amiga mod-cable will cost you some 13/14 British pounds (and you need a new eject button) Looking at those prices, it is kind of a no-brainer that if money is of no issue, and you want it pure, then go for original drive. If you do not really care, and are after something that will work longer than the next 10 years, then go for Gotek on Amiga. If you just want a real drive, yet authentisity are of no real issue, then get that cable and a eject button. Plenty of PC drives out there. | ||
Brostenen |
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TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | DXZeff - 2019-05-19 8:01 AM I'm more surprised at the notion of a Gotek device actually working than I am at the idea of a real moneyhole drive working. Well.... Depends on what machine you are looking at getting to run. Here I am talking money wise. Most Amiga drives are long dead and gone, because they were used all the time. Compared to PC that were not really used that much. And so, the drives have become extremely rare, and prices have gone up. Another thing, is that the drive standards are two different ones. The Amiga are sugard standard, and are jumped at DF0. The PC are called PC-Standard, and is jumped at DF1. Plus the Amiga need drive-ready and disc-change signals as well. Soldering on some PC drives are sometimes really difficult, and I have ripped solder pads on a couple of drives. So the best solution, is to get that mod-datacable and use a custom 3D-Printed eject button, if you want a real drive. On the other hand, a gotek drive have fallen extremely in price, to the point of being cheaper than a real drive. And if you know the right person, he can sell you a gotek and a USB pen for Amiga, with nearly all games already set up. As I mentioned. Then I have destroyed a couple of drives. Yet modding a PC drive for Amiga is like no problem if you have the right tool. This picture below, is just one of many drive types, that can be modded. So it is just an example on what work needs to be done. The last thing is rotation speed. The Amiga operates at different rotation speed, yet some 95% of all software will run anyway. Most that will not run due to different speed are Demo's and stuff that are specially coded. I think that a Gotek will set you back some 25 British pounds. A real Amiga Floppy disk drive will set you back some 30 to 35 British pounds. And a PC-To-Amiga mod-cable will cost you some 13/14 British pounds (and you need a new eject button) Looking at those prices, it is kind of a no-brainer that if money is of no issue, and you want it pure, then go for original drive. If you do not really care, and are after something that will work longer than the next 10 years, then go for Gotek on Amiga. If you just want a real drive, yet authentisity are of no real issue, then get that cable and a eject button. Plenty of PC drives out there. | ||
Brostenen |
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TM Crusoe Posts: 671 | On my breadbin 250407, the SID chip was defect. One voice channel did have sound, yet it was totally off and distorted. So I desoldered the chip, soldered in a socket and inserted a SID that I got for cheap. Now my 250407 board is up and running perfectly again, after a total recap. The next thing I want to do is eighter to get a non-gold capped 12volt VIC-II or create a new and lower sitting 12-to-5 volt socket adaptor. Anyway... Pic's or it did not happen. (so they say) (SID-Desoldered.jpg) (New-SID-And-Socket.jpg) Attachments ---------------- SID-Desoldered.jpg (660KB - 438 downloads) New-SID-And-Socket.jpg (662KB - 420 downloads) | ||
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